Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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The Age Estimation and Conservation Treatment of Suit Worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961), National Registered Cultural Heritage Item No. 609 국가등록문화재 제609호 유림(柳林) 양복 보존처리와 제작시기 고찰
The Age Estimation and Conservation Treatment of Suit Worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961), National Registered Cultural Heritage Item No. 609 국가등록문화재 제609호 유림(柳林) 양복 보존처리와 제작시기 고찰
This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898- 1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name “Danju,” a label of synthetic resin which reads “Daegu citizen's tailor's shop,” and buttons engraved with “PUSAN SIN-HUNG.” According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.
Clothing Pressure, Blood Flow, and Subjective Sensations of Women in Their 50s and 60s When Wearing a Commercial Yoga Bra Top 시판 요가용 브라탑 착용 시 50~60대 여성의 의복압 및 혈류와 주관적 반응
박소영 Soyoung Park , 김남임 Namyim Kim , 홍경희 Kyunghi Hong , 이예진 Yejin Lee
Clothing Pressure, Blood Flow, and Subjective Sensations of Women in Their 50s and 60s When Wearing a Commercial Yoga Bra Top 시판 요가용 브라탑 착용 시 50~60대 여성의 의복압 및 혈류와 주관적 반응
박소영 Soyoung Park , 김남임 Namyim Kim , 홍경희 Kyunghi Hong , 이예진 Yejin Lee
This study analyzed clothing pressure, blood flow, and subjective sensations among women in their 50s and 60s while wearing commercially available yoga bra tops (YBTs). These findings could then serve as basic data for designing YBT for women in this age range. Clothing pressure and blood flow reactions were measured in seven participants wearing four commercially available YBTs. Subjective sensations of pressure and comfort were also evaluated. The calculated data were analyzed using the SPSS 24.0 statistical program. The results suggested that YBT4 exerted the lowest clothing pressure, while YBT2 and YBT3 exerted relatively higher clothing pressures. Participants' blood flow decreased while wearing YBTs compared to the control garment. The decrease of 47.3% when the participants wore YBT2 was especially significant. The results confirmed that the blood velocity rate was physiologically lower while wearing all four YBTs than when wearing the control garment. Results for subjective pressure and overall comfort confirmed that YBT2 and YBT3 exerted relatively high pressure, while YBT4 did not exert pressure.
Key Words
Yoga bra top (YBT), Blood flow, Clothing pressure, Subjective sensation, 50-60s women, 요가용 브라탑, 혈류량, 의복압, 주관적 반응, 50~60대 여성
Brassieres for Patients Recovering from Breast Augmentation Surgery 유방 확대 수술 환자를 위한 회복기 브래지어 개발
The purpose of this study was to investigate the necessary functions and areas of improvement in bras worn by patients during the initial three-month recovery period after a breast augmentation procedure, and a functional bra that fits properly was designed. In order to analyze the necessary functions, a bra was designed after relevant discussions with medical staff and patients who underwent breast augmentation surgeries and considering the advice from bra designers and clothing and textile experts. This bra was designed to protect the surgical scars and minimize the compression by inserting a nonwoven fabric into the shoulder and front parts. In addition, it was designed in a way that could fit the individual breast volume by using a mesh material partially on the upper side of the molded cups. Underwires that could support the breasts were inserted, and a detachable wire was used to suit the patient's needs and the diagnosis by the medical staff. As the bra designed in this study received excellent scores during the evaluation by research subjects and experts, it can be used for designing the prototype of a functional bra.
Key Words
Breast augmentation, Breast surgery, Brassiere, Product development, Wearing test, 유방 확대 수술, 가슴 성형, 브래지어, 제품 개발, 착의평가
The Impact of Backstage Information on Consumer Responses for Fashion Sharing Economy Service 무대 후면(Backstage) 정보 제공이 패션 공유경제 서비스에 대한 소비자 반응에 미치는 영향
김태연 Taeyoen Kim , 이하경 Ha Kyung Lee , 추호정 Ho Jung Choo
This research started from hypothesizing that people hesitate to use a fashion sharing economy service due to the consumers' concerns or fears about contagion. The study explores how backstage information can affect consumers' responses to this service, especially their perceived risk and transparency. An online experiment was conducted to test the research questions through Amazon MTurk. The data of 351 participants in total were analyzed. The results show that backstage information, presenting hidden information with images of various product journeys, from packaging to return and laundry, had a positive effect on transparency as well as perceived risk. Both transparency and perceived risk positively affected the service's perceived honesty, and honesty also positively affected consumer engagement. Through the findings that providing backstage information had a positive effect on perceived risk, but the risk had a positive effect on perceived honesty, we can expect the reaction to the information itself to possibly be negative. However, consumers can consider the service as honest at least, which opens the possibility of expecting positive consumer attitudes or responses in a market in the near future.
As generations Y and Z gain influence, luxury fashion brands are interacting with younger digital consumers through fashion film, seeking to offer them a differentiated brand experience. Using a literature review addressing characteristics of fashion films as a communication medium and luxury fashion brands' heritage in the digital era, this study examines how brands express their heritage through fashion film, categorizing those expressions in terms of implicit meaning. The case study analyzed films from Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, and Burberry uploaded to YouTube between 2018 and 2020. First, to retain their status as luxury, brands emphasize historical legitimacy. Specifically, they highlight their iconic historical image, their succession of creative directors, valuable historic locations, and diversity of consumer's brand experiences. Second, by stressing craftsmanship, integrating contemporary art and local culture, and utilizing a museum aura, they use brand heritage to acquire luxury status. Third, they attempt to mythify the founders by creating the persona of the fashion designer and the artist. The results show that the heritage depicted in fashion films is a key way in which luxury fashion brands resolve the tension between accessibility and exclusivity that they encounter and to get consumers emotionally engaged with brands.
Key Words
Luxury fashion heritage, Fashion film, Historical legitimacy, Artistic status, Persona of designer, 럭셔리 패션 헤리티지, 패션필름, 역사적 정통성, 예술적 지위, 디자이너 페르소나
Characterization of Elongation Behavior According to Sewing Conditions for Elastic Bands on Woven Fabrics 비신축성 직물의 고무 밴드 봉제 조건에 따른 신장 특성 분석
This study analyzes how sewing conditions for elastic bands on woven fabrics affect elongation. The directions of the elastic bands were vertical, horizontal, vertical and horizontal crossing, and horizontal and vertical crossing. Intervals between the elastic bands were 3.0 cm and 6.0 cm. The woven fabric was tailored for the elastic band sewing using warp, weft, and bias. Consequently, it was possible to visually confirm elongation differences according to the sewing condition of the elastic bands. A detailed examination demonstrated that the horizontal or vertical placement of elastic bands tailored in a crosswise direction produces high vertical elongation and low horizontal contraction. However, elastic bands sewed in crossing directions, regardless of warp and weft directions, resulted in both high vertical elongation and high horizontal contraction. In all cases, the more elastic bands were used, the higher the horizontal elongation. In conclusion, appropriate placements of elastic bands on woven fabric increases motion convenience.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the perceptions of obesity among appearance-conscious women in their 20s. It is intended to provide data necessary to produce garments for obese body types by identifying adult women's subjective assessments of obese body types and characteristics. The data were analyzed using Q Methodology in the QUANL program for PC. Type 1 was recognized as uniformly fat in the abdomen, with almost the same width and thickness. Type 2 was perceived to have more fat in the upper body and back, broad shoulders, and an inverted body type. Type 3 was perceived as having a fat lower half of the body, hips wider than the chest, and large thighs. Type 4 was identified as having few curves and fat concentrated in the abdomen. Further research of other age groups and regions is needed to ascertain the difference between perceived and actual body types.
Key Words
Obesity body shape, Recognition, Subjective, Type, 20's women, 비만 체형, 인식, 주관적, 유형, 20대 여성
The Development of Electro-Conductive Threads Coated with Silver Nanowires for Use in Wearable Devices 웨어러블 디바이스를 위한 은 나노와이어 코팅 전도사 개발
Recent advances in electronic technology have engendered a need for research on the use of smart materials in clothing. Electro-conductive fibers are expected to be a crucial element of wearable devices. Therefore, in this study, we have attempted to develop electro-conductive threads and cables using silver nanowires. Based on the characteristics of silver nanowire, in which electro-conductivity can be imparted via heat treatment, we prepared conductive threads by coating nylon yarn with silver nanowires and curing at temperatures of 140°C, 150°C, and 160°C. Conductive threads cured at 140°C had the highest conductivity, followed by threads cured at 160°C and 150°C respectively. The order of the electrical conductivity of the threads after tensile testing was consistent with the original order of the conductivity of the threads. When we evaluated the sensing performance of electro-conductive cables fabricated from these threads, the cables manufactured from threads cured at 140°C and 160°C were found to function normally within temperature and humidity sensors. All the cables operated normally in illuminance and electrocardiogram sensors. Thus, we believe that threads made of silver nanowire have sufficient electrical conductivity to be utilized as wearable sensors.
This study aims to discover how the perceived attributes of luxury fashion platforms affect consumer trust and satisfaction as well as online word-of-mouth intention. Based on a literature review, this study derived four dimensions of perceived attributes: brand assortment size, exclusivity, convenience, and personalization. The paper presents findings from an online survey targeting 359 consumers in their 20s to 30s who had recent experience with luxury fashion platforms. Based on the collected data, a structural model equation analysis was performed using AMOS 22.0 and SPSS 26.0. The findings illustrated that brand assortment size, exclusivity, and personalization had positive effects on consumers' platform trust. In addition, brand assortment size and convenience had a positive impact on satisfaction. Overall, the findings of the study illustrate that perceived attributes of luxury fashion platforms have a significant impact on consumers' platform trust and satisfaction and online word-of-mouth intentions. This study reveals that consumers' trend orientation moderates the effects of consumer attitude and behavioral intention. The academic practice of this study has laid the foundation for understanding mechanisms of marketing strategies by providing the characteristics of platforms in the luxury fashion industry.
Effects of Air Velocity on the Thermal Insulation of Winter-padded Clothing Ensembles at 10°C Air Temperature -Comparison of Human Wear Trials with a Thermal Manikin- 10℃ 환경에서 기류가 겨울철 패딩 의류의 한 벌 보온력에 미치는 영향 -인체 착용 및 서멀마네킹 측정 비교-
백윤정 Yoon Jeong Baek , 조가영 Kayoung Cho , 홍유진 Yujin Hong , 이주영 Joo-young Lee
Effects of Air Velocity on the Thermal Insulation of Winter-padded Clothing Ensembles at 10°C Air Temperature -Comparison of Human Wear Trials with a Thermal Manikin- 10℃ 환경에서 기류가 겨울철 패딩 의류의 한 벌 보온력에 미치는 영향 -인체 착용 및 서멀마네킹 측정 비교-
백윤정 Yoon Jeong Baek , 조가영 Kayoung Cho , 홍유진 Yujin Hong , 이주영 Joo-young Lee
This study was to investigate the thermal insulation of clothing ensembles, including padded jackets with two different filling types. Thermal insulation of the ensemble was measured using a thermal manikin in four conditions (10°C, 30% RH and 20°C, 50% RH with an air velocity of less than 0.15 m · s-1 and 1.5 m · s-1). Ten males participated at 10°C and 30% RH with an air velocity of less than 0.15 m · s-1 and 1.5 m · s-1. The results showed that the polyester ensemble was warmer than a goose down ensemble in 0.15 m · s-1 conditions and the goose down ensemble had greater thermal insulation than the polyester ensemble at an air velocity of 1.5 m · s-1. Thermal insulation was reduced 5-7% when temperature decreased 10°C and reduced 40-50% when air velocity reached 1.5 m · s-1 for both ensembles. Thermal insulation of the ensemble in human trials decreased more than a thermal manikin at 10°C, 30% RH with an air velocity of 1.5 m · s-1. Lower temperatures and human trials were effective in identifying the properties of the thermal insulation by filling types even though there were restrictions on the general application because of two types of a clothing ensemble.
Key Words
Padded jacket, Thermal insulation of clothing ensemble, clo, Thermal manikin, Human trial, 패딩 재킷, 한 벌 의복의 보온력, 클로, 서멀마네킹, 인체 착용 평가
