Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. The Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1997
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Body Shape Classification for Adult Male under 170 cm 170 cm 미만 성인남성 체형 유형화
This study classified short adult male body types and identified characteristics by body type according to Size Korea's 7th human system measurement data for men in their 20s to 60s. There were four body types for short adult males. Type 1 was a ‘short bird legs-normal body shape’ with an average body size, low body height, short torso length, thin legs, and no sagging shoulders. Type 2 was a ‘short torso thin body’ with a small body size, a slim body, a high body height, a short torso length and no sagging shoulders. Type 3 was a ‘thick leg-overweight body shape’ with a large body size, thick legs, low body height, small shoulder length and obesity. Type 4 was a ‘long bird legs-normal body’ with a normal body size, high body height, thin legs, long torso and sagging shoulders. The development of clothing design and pattern reflecting the body shape characteristics of short adult males should be improved to fit clothing and suitability. It is necessary to increase the satisfaction of ready-to-wear for consumers with various body types by adding the size for shorter men through a subdivision of the ready-made size system.
Key Words
Under 170 cm, Adult male, Body shape, Classification, 170 cm 미만, 성인남성, 체형, 유형
A Study on the Design Characteristics of Athleisure Look in Image-based SNS 이미지 기반 SNS에 나타난 애슬레저 룩의 디자인 특성 연구
The pursuit of a healthier life has created life style changes through exercise; in addition, an athleisure look as well as a combination of everyday clothes and sportswear has rapidly spread through sharing based on image-based SNS. Fashion related images shown in an image-based SNS are considered important resources for grasping micro-needs with regard to the sensibility of consumers. Therefore, this study analyzes the design characteristics of an athleisure look shown in image-based SNS. In order to analyze the athleisure look, images of the entire garment were collected and classified to enable content analysis methods that analyzed the design characteristics of each type. As a result, types were classified as sporty-athleisure, modern-athleisure, high-end athleisure, retro-athleisure, and romantic-athleisure. Looking at the characteristics of the athleisure look, it was shown that the design characteristics of each type were well expressed through differences in the direction, material, and details by matching between the items used. This study can be used in design development processes by deriving the characteristics of athleisure looks through an analysis of fashion images that appear in image-based SNS.
Key Words
Athleisure look, Image-based SNS, Fashion image, 애슬레저 룩, 이미지 기반 SNS, 패션 이미지
A Study on Smart Clothing Products Based on Smart Clothing Patent Application Technology 스마트 의류의 제품 사례 연구 -스마트 의류 특허출원 기술을 중심으로-
이재경 Jaekyong Lee , 추호정 Hojung Choo , 김하연 Hayeon Kim
The importance of smart clothing as a product is increasingly emphasized as further growth in the potential of the smart market is expected. There is a high understanding and sympathy for the potential of smart clothing in the mass consumer market; therefore, commercialization is not actively carried out. This study enhances the understanding of the development direction of products with a focus on technical benefits, in order for smart clothing to gain access to customers as wearable devices. This study identifies major technologies used in smart clothing through an analysis of the patent technology status of smart clothing in Korea. Smart clothing is divided into three types: passive smart, active smart and advanced smart clothing based on a reaction mechanism and functional scope. We present the smart clothing and discuss the product features for three types. According to research, smart clothing products were equipped with passive, active, and advanced smart systems as well as provided new services by converging big data and AI technologies, rather than only using technologies such as sensors, controls, and actuators. Future directions for new smart clothing product development is also discussed in the conclusion.
Seam puckering and the seam strength of conductive threads used to produce smart clothing were analyzed according to stitching methods and fabrics. Samples were prepared in a lock stitch and zigzag stitch on plain woven and jersey knit fabric, using one type of polyester sewing thread and three types of commercial conductive threads that consisted of two types of stainless-steel conductive threads (TST and MST) and one type of silver conductive thread (SSV). Seam pucker percentages, shapes, and seam strength were measured. On plain woven fabric as well as jersey knit fabric, three-ply TST and MST showed a higher SP percentage compared to a polyester sewing thread. Meanwhile, single-ply SSV showed the lowest SP percentage. In addition, the SP percentage of the zigzag stitch decreased along the weft and course directions of the fabric, and decreased significantly as the number of fabric layers increased. Moreover, there was a marked tendency for a higher SP percentage in jersey knit fabric compared to plain woven fabric, and the two-dimensional cross-section waveforms of stitches obtained using three-dimensional data that showed increased irregular waveforms and peaks in the zigzag stitch. There were no correlations between seam strength and tensile strength.
Effect of Influencers' Characteristics and Consumer Need Satisfaction on Attachment to Influencer, Content Flow and Purchase Intention 인플루언서 특성과 소비자 욕구충족성이 인플루언서 애착, 콘텐츠 몰입 및 구매의도에 미치는 영향
Effect of Influencers' Characteristics and Consumer Need Satisfaction on Attachment to Influencer, Content Flow and Purchase Intention 인플루언서 특성과 소비자 욕구충족성이 인플루언서 애착, 콘텐츠 몰입 및 구매의도에 미치는 영향
This study examines the effect of influencer characteristics (attractiveness, reliability, expertise, and intimacy) and consumer need satisfaction (autonomy, relatedness, and competence) on attachment to influencer, content flow, and purchase intention. The moderating effect of gender was also investigated. Survey data collected from 515 male and female Instagram users were submitted for analysis. The research findings are as follows. First, the reliability and intimacy of influencers had a positive effect on attachment to influencers whereas attractiveness and intimacy had positive effects on content flow. Second, the relatedness and competence that consumers felt during the use of influencer content had a positive effect on attachment to influencers whereas the autonomy had a positive effect on content flow. Third, the attachment to influencers increased the intention to purchase products introduced by influencers via content flow. Fourth, there were some gender differences in the relationships of attachment to influencer, content flow, and purchase intention. Implications were suggested based on the results.
Key Words
Influencer, Consumer need satisfaction, Attachment, Flow, Purchase intention, 인플루언서, 소비자 욕구충족성, 애착, 몰입, 구매의도
Types and Experiential Value of Fashion Mobile Play -Focusing on Play Theory- 패션 모바일 놀이의 유형과 경험적 가치 -놀이 이론을 중심으로-
박신영 Shin Young Park , 이윤경 Yoon Kyung Lee , 이미아 Mi Ah Lee
This study typifies fashion mobile plays in a digital environment and explores the experiential value created by them through a case study of a fashion brand mobile app. For the case analysis, mobile plays were divided into four types: intrinsic motivation/active participation, intrinsic motivation/passive participation, external motivation/active participation, and external motivation/passive participation, depending on the mobile players motivation and level of participation. Among the global fashion brand mobile apps released from 2009 to 2019, 16 cases suitable for the analytical framework were used for final analyses. The main results are as follows. First, mobile play value include characteristics such as networkability, immersion, hyper-spatiality, and super-temporality in addition to the attributes of a traditional play such as spontaneity, uncertainty, regularity, and playfulness. Second, the four types of mobile play provide participants with an experiential value such as creative value, emotional value, social value, and exploitative value. This study has academic implications in terms of introducing a new framework that can typify mobile plays and suggest practical implications for what experiential value fashion companies can give consumers through mobile app marketing.
Key Words
Fashion mobile play, Play theory, Mobile branded application, Experiential value, 패션 모바일 놀이, 놀이 이론, 모바일 브랜드 앱, 경험적 가치
Development of the Fundamental Methodology of Lower Cup Pattern depending on 3D Shape Analysis of Breast 3차원 형상 분석을 통한 브래지어 하컵 패턴의 원리 분석
이옥경 Okkyung Lee , 홍경희 Kyunghi Hong , 이예진 Yejin Lee
This study analyzes the shape change of the breast according to the replica combination method of the lower cup and suggest a pattern construction for the end use purpose. To provide appropriate brassiere patterns to each individual who has various 3D shape characteristics, the ways of layout of 3D replicas were investigated as well as evaluated subjectively and objectively. As for experimental brassieres, basic replicas from the mold cup of long-run brassiere were combined into five different ways to find the appropriate lower brassiere cup pattern. Eighteen women wore experimental brassieres and their breasts were analyzed using the Geomagic Design X program (3D System, Inc., Korea). As result, the pattern that matched the vertexes of the four pieces of the replica and naturally spread the bottom part was best for raising and pushing toward the inside breasts. The fit was good in the case of a pattern in which the convex portions overlapped both sides of the four replica pieces where the vertexes and the bottom part naturally spread apart. The subjects were able to differentiate comfortably fitted brassieres and highly functional brassieres.
Key Words
Basic replica, Brassiere cup pattern, 3D measurement, Breast volume, Surface area of breast, 기본 레플리카, 하컵 브래지어 패턴, 3차원 측정, 유방 부피, 유방 표면적
Mechanical Properties of 3D Printed Re-entrant Pattern/Neoprene Composite Textile by Pattern Tilting Angle of Pattern 3D 프린팅 Auxetic Re-entrant 패턴의 기울기 각도에 따른 네오프렌 복합 직물의 역학적 특성에 관한 연구
김혜림 Hyelim Kim , 카비르샤흐바지 Shahbaj Kabir , 이선희 Sunhee Lee
Mechanical Properties of 3D Printed Re-entrant Pattern/Neoprene Composite Textile by Pattern Tilting Angle of Pattern 3D 프린팅 Auxetic Re-entrant 패턴의 기울기 각도에 따른 네오프렌 복합 직물의 역학적 특성에 관한 연구
김혜림 Hyelim Kim , 카비르샤흐바지 Shahbaj Kabir , 이선희 Sunhee Lee
This study confirmed the mechanical properties of an auxetic re-entrant pattern prepared using 3D printing technology and its composite fabric with neoprene for the production of functional auxetic patterns/textiles for safety shoes. Samples were prepared by the tilt angle of a re-entrant pattern of 0°, 30°, 45°, 60° and 90°, and then analyzed using Poisson's ratio, bending, compression, and tensile properties. A 3D printed auxetic re-entrant pattern (3DP-RE) and its composite fabric (3DP-RE/NP) showed a negative Poisson's ratio in all tilting angles that indicated auxetic properties. The results of the bending property shown that strength of 3DP-RE/NP was 1.5 times lower than NP, but the strain improved 2.0 times. It was confirmed that the deformation of 3DP-RE/NP is possible with a low load. Each sample type of compression behavior indicated similar regardless of the tilting angles; in addition, the compression toughness of 3DP-RE/NP increased 1.2 times compared with NP. In the case of tensile properties, 3DP-RE and 3DP-RE/NP were affected by the tilting angle, samples with 90° (the opposite of load direction) showed best tensile property and toughness. 3DP-RE/NP indicated improved bending, compression, and tensile properties.
Key Words
Fused deposition modeling 3D printing, Auxetic re-entrant pattern, Neoprene, Tilting angle, Mechanical property, FDM 3D 프린팅, Auxetic re-entrant 패턴, 네오프렌, 기울기 각도, 기계적 특성
An Analysis on Body Sizes Affecting the Choice of T-shirts Size in On-line Shopping Environments -Focusing on Women in Their Twenties- 온라인 구매환경에서 티셔츠 호칭 선택에 영향을 미치는 신체특성 분석 -20대 여성을 중심으로-
An Analysis on Body Sizes Affecting the Choice of T-shirts Size in On-line Shopping Environments -Focusing on Women in Their Twenties- 온라인 구매환경에서 티셔츠 호칭 선택에 영향을 미치는 신체특성 분석 -20대 여성을 중심으로-
This study provides basic information for the convenient size selection of T-shirts in an online purchasing environment. The best preferred T-shirts fit was selected among five sizes of T-shirts according to body size group. The subjects were 103 students majoring in clothing. After setting a virtual model with her own body sizes, the subjects chose the best preferred fit among five sizes of T-shirts that included the one suitable to their bust circumference, two smaller T-shirts and two larger T-shirts. As a result, they preferred the fit of larger size T-shirts than body size, but they preferred a different fit by the body characteristic group such as waist height group and hip circumference group. T-shirt length was affected by waist height; in addition, shoulder ease was affected by hip circumference and bust circumference. Therefore waist height and hip circumference should be considerable sizes when consumers choose T-shirts sizes with a preferred fit.
Analysis of Designer Brands Aiming for the Value of Slow Fashion -Focused on John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small- 슬로 패션의 가치를 지향하는 디자이너 브랜드 분석 -John Alexander Skelton과 Geoffrey B. Small을 중심으로-
Analysis of Designer Brands Aiming for the Value of Slow Fashion -Focused on John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small- 슬로 패션의 가치를 지향하는 디자이너 브랜드 분석 -John Alexander Skelton과 Geoffrey B. Small을 중심으로-
‘Slow fashion’ has become a hot issue in the fashion world as fast fashion has caused environmental and ethical problems. This study synthesized the characteristics of slow fashion from preceding studies and organized them into four characteristics (craftsmanship, nature-friendly attitude, localism, and pursuit of exclusive value). This study compared designers, John Alexander Skelton and Geoffrey B. Small with four characteristics. First, both designers sought craftsmanship based on tailoring, but Skelton focused on the eco-friendliness of materials, and Small emphasized the development of high-quality fabrics. Second, we found a nature-friendly attitude in both designers, but unlike Skelton, which maintains nature-friendliness in the process of clothing production, Small showed this characteristic through presentations. Third, both designers revealed localism through their affection for the fabrics and culture of each country. Moreover, Small extended its meaning to respect minority tastes. Finally, both designers pursued exclusive values through collections under the themes of class problem, and gender conflicts. However, Skelton melted these topics into British culture and revealed them indirectly versus Small who showed sensitive topics directly in the collections. This study will provide the foundation for analyzing designers through the characteristics of slow fashion, and suggests directions that slow fashion designers should move towards.
Key Words
Slow fashion, John Alexander Skelton, Geoffrey B, Small, Craftsmanship, Sustainability, 슬로 패션, 존 알렉산더 스켈톤, 제프리 비 스몰, 장인 정신, 지속가능성
