Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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A Study of the Style Type and Formative Properties of Short Front and Long Back Skirts in the Early Joseon Dynasty 조선 전기 전단후장형 치마의 스타일 유형과 조형적 특성 연구
This study classifies short front long back skirts from the Joseon Dynasty by style type, identifies their formative characteristics based on their external morphological properties and internal composition, and examines their correlation with Korean thought. A literature review and empirical research were conducted for this study. The style of short front long back skirts is classified as inverted “b”-shaped, lower lip, wavy, trapezoid with a raised center hem, or half-circle. As such, this skirt possesses the formative properties of imbalance, variability of shape, intentional three-dimensionality, and confluence. In other words, with an imbalance resulting from the difference in length between the front and back, these skirts are characterized by variability in shape created by intentional three-dimensionality expressed as intentional three-dimensional beauty, the confluence of planes and dimensions, as well as of materials and colors. These properties are correlated with Korean ways of viewing the world. This study contributes to the development of Korean designs.
Key Words
Early Joseon Dynasty, Short front and long back skirt, Style type, Formative properties, Korean thought, 조선 전기, 전단 후장형 치마, 스타일 유형, 조형적 특성, 한국적 정신사상
Expression of Identity in Martin Gutierrez's Fashion Media Works -Focused on Judith Butler and Athena Athanasiou's Concept of Dispossession- 마틴 구티에레즈의 패션미디어 작품에 나타난 정체성 표현 -주디스 버틀러와 아테나 아타나시오우의 박탈(Dispossession) 개념을 중심으로-
Expression of Identity in Martin Gutierrez's Fashion Media Works -Focused on Judith Butler and Athena Athanasiou's Concept of Dispossession- 마틴 구티에레즈의 패션미디어 작품에 나타난 정체성 표현 -주디스 버틀러와 아테나 아타나시오우의 박탈(Dispossession) 개념을 중심으로-
The boundaries between fashion and contemporary art are increasingly blurred showing their interchangeability. This study examines Judith Butler and Athena Athanasiou's concept of dispossession to analyze expressions of gender, racial, and class identity in Martine Gutierrez's representative work, Indigenous Woman. First, gender expressions in Indigenous Woman emphasize the possibility of performative and practical gender as an image that rejects norms that grant authority according to the possession of innate body parts. Second, racial identity is expressed through resistance to the ideology of whiteness and imperialism reinforced by fashion media. The author aims to overcome normative stereotypes through the media she creates, which reveals her identity as a person of color. Third, class identity is represented through stereotypes that limit the lives of indigenous people to primitive and natural things. The author reveals a critical awareness of the hierarchical structure and cultural appropriation these stereotypes have created. This study analyzed contemporary artworks using fashion media through the concept of dispossession. The significance of this study lies in raising a critical awareness of the practices that diffuse minority identities in fashion media.
Patterns abstractly depicting flowing water with Chinese characters such as gong, wan(man), or wang continued endlessly and curved water patterns began appearing on textiles during the Song Dynasty. Though Song curved water patterns encompassed poetic sentiments such as “falling flowers and flowing water,” the meaning faded with time, and these patterns were depicted in backgrounds with flowers added to brocade (Geum-sang-cheom-hwa). During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, combinations of diverse patterns, including flowers, butterflies, dragons, and auspicious treasures became fashionable, rather than the gong- and wan-shaped curved water patterns. Likewise, during the Joseon Dynasty, curved water patterns were preferred as background rather than as primary patterns. They were overlaid with flowers and clouds. The overlaid flower patterns included four-season flower patterns (17th-18th centuries), round flower patterns (19th century), and large flower patterns (20th century), which were identical to flower patterns fashionable at the time and arranged at intervals on complex curved water pattern backgrounds. In contrast, simple Ruyi types were more numerous than the four-Ruyi types fashionable at the time with regard to cloud patterns. Added here were Taiji (great ultimate symbol) or crane patterns, thus seeking to depict diverse auspicious Ruyi such as wish fulfillment and longevity.
Key Words
Falling flowers and flowing water, Geometrical pattern, Wan-character pattern, Adding flowers to the brocade, Round flower pattern, 낙화유수, 기하문, 만자문, 금상첨화, 피구화
What Promotes Adolescent Girls' Makeup in South Korea? Fashion Leadership, Social Support from Friends, and Self-Esteem
In South Korea, it has become popular for adolescent girls to wear makeup. From social perspectives on their makeup use, however, it remains controversial among parents, teachers, and even the girls. This study examined the status of adolescent girls' makeup usage, identified factors that influence their makeup use, and laid the groundwork for establishing a social consensus on makeup use among adolescent girls in South Korean society. Data from South Korean adolescent girls were collected and analyzed using MANOVA for repeated measures, confirmatory factor analysis, and structural equation modeling. Adolescent girls were found to wear less makeup at school than outside of school. Additionally, their makeup use was influenced by both positive (e.g., fashion leaders and social support from friends) and negative factors (e.g., low self-esteem). The findings of this study suggest that instead of strict bans against the use of makeup by girls, educational programs are needed to help adolescent girls grow up with healthy perspectives.
Key Words
Adolescent makeup, Fashion leadership, Self-esteem, Social support from friends, South Korean adolescents
Effects of Experience Factors in Experiential Fashion Store on Consumer Loyalty Mediated by Store Attachment -Focusing on the Moderating Role of Fashion Innovativeness- 체험형 패션 매장 내 체험적 요소가 점포 애착을 매개로 소비자 충성도에 미치는 영향 -패션 혁신성의 조절효과를 중심으로-
Effects of Experience Factors in Experiential Fashion Store on Consumer Loyalty Mediated by Store Attachment -Focusing on the Moderating Role of Fashion Innovativeness- 체험형 패션 매장 내 체험적 요소가 점포 애착을 매개로 소비자 충성도에 미치는 영향 -패션 혁신성의 조절효과를 중심으로-
As more consumers have turned to online shopping since the COVID-19 pandemic, communication through offline channels has also entered a new phase. Young consumers recognize offline channels as a play space for enjoying various experience elements. Applying Pine and Gilmore's (1998) experiential economy theory, this study initially explores the structure of experience factors in the context of experiential fashion stores (RQ1). Next, we investigate the effect of experience factors on consumer loyalty by mediating store attachment (RQ2). In addition, the moderating effect of fashion innovativeness was verified (RQ3). This survey targeted members of the MZ generation who have visited experiential fashion stores. A total of 225 survey responses were analyzed using AMOS 22.0 and SPSS 26.0. First, as a result of factor analysis, the experience factors of experiential fashion stores were classified into education, escapism, and aesthetic entertainment. Secondly, as a result of structural equation modeling (SEM), all three experience factors positively affected store attachment, and increased attachment positively enhanced consumer loyalty. Finally, as a result of multigroup SEM analysis, consumers with low fashion innovativeness considered educational experience as an important factor in inducing store attachment, while consumers with high fashion innovativeness value escapism and aesthetic entertainment experiences.
Key Words
Experience economy theory, Experiential fashion store, Store attachment, Consumer loyalty, Fashion innovativeness, 체험경제이론, 체험형 패션 매장, 점포 애착, 소비자 충성도, 패션 혁신성
The Effect of Virtual Fashion Influencers' Presence on Evaluation Attributes and Relationship Maintenance Behavior 가상 패션 인플루언서의 실재감이 평가속성과 관계유지행동에 미치는 영향
이세라 Sera Lee , 박주하 Juha Park , 김태연 Taeyoen Kim , 전재훈 Jaehoon Chun
The Effect of Virtual Fashion Influencers' Presence on Evaluation Attributes and Relationship Maintenance Behavior 가상 패션 인플루언서의 실재감이 평가속성과 관계유지행동에 미치는 영향
이세라 Sera Lee , 박주하 Juha Park , 김태연 Taeyoen Kim , 전재훈 Jaehoon Chun
The current virtual fashion influencers are a hyper-real prototype in that it has a higher presence than the virtual humans in the past. Also, they are leading fashion trend with more than tens of thousands of followers on social media. This study investigated the physical and social presence of virtual fashion influencer perceived by consumer and verified effects on evaluation attributes of influencers and the relationship maintenance behavior. A total of 321 Korean women in their 20s and 30s who have Instagram account participated in the online survey. The data was analyzed using AMOS 23.0. The results revealed that the physical presence had a significant impact on attractiveness of virtual fashion influencers. In case of social presence had a positive effect on friendliness and reliability of virtual fashion influencers. In addition, evaluation attributes of virtual fashion influencers’ friendliness, attractiveness and reliability in the order of influence on relationship maintenance behavior. This study suggested that the development of social presence of virtual fashion influencers with friendliness and attractiveness is more important than the physical presence that has already reached a high level.
Key Words
Virtual fashion influencer, Virtual human, Presence, Evaluation attributes, Relationship maintenance behavior, 가상 패션 인플루언서, 가상 인간, 실재감, 평가속성, 관계유지행동
Evaluation of Physical Properties of Material Combination for Fabricating Protection Pads for Women's Army Combat Uniforms 여군 전투복 내 관절 부위 보호 패드 개발을 위한 설계 변인 조합에 따른 물성 평가
이옥경 Okkyung Lee , 이희란 Heeran Lee , 김소영 Soyoung Kim , 이예진 Yejin Lee
Evaluation of Physical Properties of Material Combination for Fabricating Protection Pads for Women's Army Combat Uniforms 여군 전투복 내 관절 부위 보호 패드 개발을 위한 설계 변인 조합에 따른 물성 평가
이옥경 Okkyung Lee , 이희란 Heeran Lee , 김소영 Soyoung Kim , 이예진 Yejin Lee
In this study, the properties of various material combinations were evaluated and an ideal material for fabricating protection pads for women's army combat uniforms was determined. Eight specimens were used for the evaluation: two types of materials, namely thermoplastic polyurethane for 3D printing, T and ethylene-vinyl acetate, E; two infill densities, namely 10%, 10 and 30%, 30; two types of pad designs, i.e., without holes, A and with holes, B; 2×2×2=8 and control E. The tensile strength, flexural strength, impact absorption, and weight of these specimens were evaluated. Results revealed that E was the most flexible material; however, its tensile strength and impact absorption were very low. Protection pads made from T (T-10A, T-10B, T-30A, and T-30B) had excellent tensile strength and impact absorption; however, they had low performance in ease of movement. Alternatively, protection pad with holes and an infill density of 30% produced using a combination of T and E had a high initial tensile modulus and exhibited excellent impact absorption. Moreover, it was flexible and light, which satisfies the standards and conditions required by protection pads. However, if T-E-10A and T-E-30B exhibited low impact absorption, as required, they can be regarded as appropriate materials for protection pads.
Key Words
Women, s army combat uniform, 3D printing protection pad, Impact absorption performance, Tensile Strength, Flexural Strength, 여군 전투복, 3D 프린팅 보호 패드, 충격흡수 성능, 인장 강도, 굴곡강도
A Study of Users' EEG Responses to Different Types of Fashion Films 패션필름의 유형에 따른 이용자의 뇌파 반응 연구
In the 21st century, fashion films are frequently used throughout the fashion industry. In particular, as videos have become an essential element and a communication tool of social media, they are becoming even more important in the world of fashion. In this study, different types of short-length fashion films (< 0:60) in current use were derived, and the effects of on the cognitive and emotional responses of users were analyzed using electroencephalogram( EEG) findings. EEG measurements were performed using Epoc+ on 31 healthy women aged 20-29 years after viewing six types of fashion films[fiction/well-made, fiction/user generated content(UGC), documentary/well-made, documentary/UGC, art/well-made, and art/UGC] in random order. The results demonstrate differences among four types of films. Specifically, alpha waves in the frontal lobe decreased more while watching documentary/UGC films than while watching art/well-made films. Gamma waves in the temporal lobe decreased more while watching fiction/well-made films than while watching documentary/UGC films. Furthermore, theta waves in the occipital lobe increased more while watching fiction/well-made films than while watching art/UGC films. These findings suggest that different types of fashion films can stimulate different parts of the brain that process thinking, cognition, emotion, and visual and auditory information and consequently evoke emotional responses.
This study develops a t-shirt design that align bones and balance muscles in order to maintain proper posture using the basic concepts of symmetry. First, theoretical and 3D design studies, existing literature on proper and improper posture, and the basic concepts of symmetry are studied to create the design. Next, the 3D design process applies bilateral, rotational, and scaling symmetries to design the inner lines from the basic application of symmetry. A two-stage design process is used, whereby the strain map and pressure points are analyzed using the CLO virtual clothing software, and the most effective design is determined through virtual testing. The results show that the Y+)( and X+― design, which combines the position and type of inner lines, is the most effective for posture correction and maintenance. Overall, this study helps create a theoretical and practical basis for exploring and understanding basic lines appropriate for the human body, and subsequently, for developing various products that maintain posture more accurately and precisely.
In this study, the performance of ultrasonic cleaners for ultrasonic washing, which is one of the wet cleaning methods, was evaluated. The washing performances of ultrasonic cleaners were compared with commercial washing machines under normal and wool courses based on different parameters such as detergency, wrinkle formation, fabric damage, dimensional stability, and germ removal ability. Cotton, silk and wool were used in this experiment. Results revealed that the ultrasonic washing detergency of cotton fabrics was lower than that of commercial washing machines under the normal course and similar to that of commercial washing machines under the wool course. Detergency of silk fabrics was similar under both normal and wool courses. In terms of wrinkle formation and dimensional stability, ultrasonic cleaners showed lesser wrinkles and lower shrinkage than commercial washing machines. Considering damage evaluation, ultrasonic cleaners more effectively removed soil without damaging fabrics compared with commercial washing machines. The bacteria removal rate of both cotton and silk was more effective than the wool course of a commercial washing machine. Thus, this study compares the performance of ultrasonic cleaners and commercial washing machines and provides meaningful results related to ultrasonic washing performance.
The Effects of Characteristics of Live Commerce on Consumer Responses -Focusing on Elaboration Likelihood Model- 라이브 커머스의 특성이 소비자 반응에 미치는 영향 -정교화 가능성 모델을 중심으로-
조하경 Hakyoung Cho , 박민정 Minjung Park , 유정민 Jungmin Yoo
The Effects of Characteristics of Live Commerce on Consumer Responses -Focusing on Elaboration Likelihood Model- 라이브 커머스의 특성이 소비자 반응에 미치는 영향 -정교화 가능성 모델을 중심으로-
조하경 Hakyoung Cho , 박민정 Minjung Park , 유정민 Jungmin Yoo
This study examines the impact of live commerce characteristics on customer responses in the ELM perspective. Based on ELM, the central route is composed of information completeness, accuracy, and currency, and the peripheral route is composed of streamer credibility, streamer reputation, social presence, and system quality. An online survey of female customers aged 20 to 49 who have purchased beauty products through live commerce within the past three months was conducted. The results demonstrate that information completeness and information currency exert significant impact on perceived usefulness and enjoyment. Social presence and system quality also exert significant impact on perceived usefulness and enjoyment. Moreover, perceived usefulness and enjoyment had significant impact on behavioral intention. The effect of information completeness on perceived usefulness and enjoyment was much stronger for high product involvement groups. Furthermore, the effect of streamer reputation on perceived enjoyment was much stronger for high product involvement groups. In contrast, the effect of social presence on perceived usefulness and enjoyment was much stronger for low product involvement groups. This study suggests theoretical implications for applying ELM to live commerce and practical implications for differentiated live commerce marketing strategies.
Key Words
Live commerce, Elaboration likelihood model, Perceived usefulness, Perceived enjoyment, Product involvement, 라이브 커머스, 정교화 가능성 모델, 인지된 유용성, 인지된 즐거움, 제품 관여도
A Study of the Flower-Shaped Silver Crown Ornament and Inverted Triangle-Shaped Crown Ornament of Baekje During the Sabi Period 백제 사비기 은화관식과 역삼각형 관식에 관한 연구
A Study of the Flower-Shaped Silver Crown Ornament and Inverted Triangle-Shaped Crown Ornament of Baekje During the Sabi Period 백제 사비기 은화관식과 역삼각형 관식에 관한 연구
This study concerns the flower-shaped silver crown ornament and inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament of Baekje, which were worn frequently during the Sabi period. The purpose of this study is to present a new estimated shape of the crown and ornaments. Individual excavation cases and archaeological data were analyzed. The flower-shaped silver crown ornament appears as a thin silver plate with buds on the center and side branches and is symmetrically bent from the center to form a ∧ shape. The inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament resembles two right-angle triangles that are back-to-back. The crown to which the two ornaments were added appears to be a triangular crown that was made by covering birch bark of with fabric. Both ornaments were believed to have been located on the front of crown, but that is incorrect. The flower-shaped silver crown ornament was inserted on the front of the crown, and the inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament was fixed with a tip at the top of the crown and then obliquely on the crown's side. The inferred design was confirmed with real reproductions. This study is significant in that it identifies the crown of Baekje during the Sabi period.
