Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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Types and Esthetic Characteristics by Function in Portable Smart Fashion Design 휴대형 스마트 패션 디자인의 기능에 따른 유형 및 심미적 특성
The smart fashion industry is showing steady growth worldwide, which will create new value throughout the fashion industry and become an essential element for efficient lifestyles. This study attempted to examine the development trend of smart fashion products from a design perspective and present the direction of design as a fashion item incorporating smart technology from a functional perspective. For this purpose, the category of portable smart fashion and the characteristics of the research object were considered through current status survey and previous research review. Among smart fashion, accessories and clothing/fabric products that have been released thus far that apply portable fashion design principles are selected and its characteristics are analyzed. In addition, function keywords were extracted based on the product description provided by the manufacturer and the function-oriented types were classified to identify each type's design characteristics. Therefore, the area receiving the signal and the sensor size should be considered, as should the fashion accessory type that combines various materials and colors. The clothing/textile type requires a design that mainly focuses on functions related to bio-signal interactions.
Developing fitted Torso Patterns for Men in Their 20s Utilizing Virtual Fitting -Focused on the Inverted Triangle Body Type- 가상착의를 활용한 20대 남성 피티드 토르소 패턴 개발 -역삼각 체형을 중심으로-
Developing fitted Torso Patterns for Men in Their 20s Utilizing Virtual Fitting -Focused on the Inverted Triangle Body Type- 가상착의를 활용한 20대 남성 피티드 토르소 패턴 개발 -역삼각 체형을 중심으로-
This study aimed to develop a fitted torso pattern with an improved fit for inverted-triangular males in their twenties. For this study, six torso patterns were collected, compared and evaluated, and a fitted torso pattern was developed using virtual fittings. The research results are as follows. First, the fitted torso pattern received a good rating as a result of the virtual fitting evaluation: waist dart set 2 of the front; the amount of comfort is set at 5 cm around the chest, 4 cm around the waist and 10 cm around the hips. Second, the evaluation of virtual fitting of the development pattern showed that fit evaluation was 4.11/5 points, ease evaluation was 6.53/7 points, and that the stress map and airgap were suitable for the human body. Third, the actual fit evaluation of the development pattern was 4.25/5 points, 6.35/7 points for ease evaluation, and 4.81/5 points for motion evaluation. Fourth, there was no significant difference between the results of the virtual and actual fitting evaluation with the objectivity test. It is therefore possible to apply a pattern developed through a virtual fitting to an actual human body and to confirm the objectivity of the pattern.
Key Words
Virtual fitting, Fitted torso pattern, Men in 20, Inverted triangle body type, 가상착의, 피티드 토르소 패턴, 20대 남성, 역삼각 체형
A Study on Keyword Information Characteristics of Product Names for Online Sales of Women's Jeans Using Text Mining 텍스트마이닝을 활용한 온라인 판매 여성 청바지 상품명에 나타난 키워드의 정보 특성 분석
A Study on Keyword Information Characteristics of Product Names for Online Sales of Women's Jeans Using Text Mining 텍스트마이닝을 활용한 온라인 판매 여성 청바지 상품명에 나타난 키워드의 정보 특성 분석
This study used text mining to extract 2,842 keywords from 7,397 product names and organized them into categories in order to analyze the characteristics of keywords appearing in the product names of jeans after 2020. The item category included denim and Chungbaji [청바지], and Ilja [일자], while the silhouette category included wide and bootcut. In addition, high-waist and banding comprised the making sector, and the materials category consisted of napping, spandex, and soft blue. Denim surpassed the others in frequency, co-occurrence frequency, and centrality, and co-appeared with various other keywords. Also, the co-appearance of item and silhouette was prominent, and there were many keyword combinations that showed characteristics related to (a) high waist; (b) hemline detail; (c) rubber band; and (d) partial tearing. Furthermore, idiom expressions such as ‘slim fit’ and ‘back tearing’, which were not highlighted in the co-occurrence frequency, were additionally confirmed through correlation. Therefore, the product name analysis effectively identified the detailed characteristics of the silhouette and the making of jeans preferred by consumers.
This study examined the effect of Jojoba oil on the protection of virgin black hair and hair damaged by bleaching. Both hair types were treated for 35 days with 100% Jojoba oil or one of two types of hair conditioner, one formulated with 3% of Jojoba oil and the other formulated without Jojoba oil. The effect of protection was examined in terms of the change in the color, tensile stress, weight, and amount of protein leak compared to untreated black hair or bleached hair. The composition of fatty acids in the Jojoba oil was analyzed using the Gas chromatography mass spectrometry. The differences among the three treatments were statistically tested by one-way analysis of variance test and the Duncan post-hoc test at α = .05. The main fatty acid contained in the Jojoba oil was 11-eicosenoic acid (75.14%). Based on the statistical test it was found that 100% Jojoba oil was the most effective in increasing the tensile stress of black hair and the weight of bleached hair after 35 days of treatment.
This study aims to identify the current sizing communication issues of menswear on retail websites and to suggest an effective size information presentation method. Based on sales frequency and awareness in the Korean menswear market, 22 brand websites were selected, and size-related information was investigated using 7 types of representative apparel items. The current diverse types of size codes had limitations in delivering actual product size information. Many websites preferred to display garment dimensions rather than basic body measurements, which is the suggested size designation method in Korean Standard. The websites posted fit model photos and customer reviews. However, the body size specifications, which consumers can use as a useful reference, were often omitted. There was also a high uncertainty in product size selection, with only the basic body measurement information listed, and there was a high deviation of garment dimensions within the same basic body measurements. The product size distribution did not match actual Korean body types. Based on the findings, we suggested improved effective sizing communication methods. These methods will contribute to a better online shopping environment for both consumers and retail sellers.
What do Smart Home Appliance Users Expect from Smart Washing Machines? -A Qualitative Exploration of Predictive Expectations for Smart Washing Machines- 스마트 가전 사용자는 스마트 세탁기에 무엇을 기대하는가? -스마트 세탁기에 대한 예측적 기대 탐색을 위한 질적 연구-
What do Smart Home Appliance Users Expect from Smart Washing Machines? -A Qualitative Exploration of Predictive Expectations for Smart Washing Machines- 스마트 가전 사용자는 스마트 세탁기에 무엇을 기대하는가? -스마트 세탁기에 대한 예측적 기대 탐색을 위한 질적 연구-
Laundry has traditionally been regarded as one of the most demanding household chores, but the introduction of smart washing machines is changing this perception. Although smart washing machines have been on the market for several years and consumers' perceptions of washing machines have changed, little is known about consumers' perceptions of smart washing machines. The purpose of this study is to determine what users expect from smart washing machines. We conducted two focus group interviews with sixteen participants who had used smart home appliances to acquire qualitative data. Stimuli created by the interviewees were applied in the focus group interviews to collect more insightful data. We analyzed the data using the three-step method and QSR NVivo. Analysis revealed ten categories of predictive expectations, including seven utilitarian attributes (i.e., smart functionality, smart user interface, reliability, controllability, interactivity, functional value, and economic value) and three hedonic attributes (i.e., fashionable value, psychological value, and social value). The results of this study have implications for the development of smart washing machines that would satisfy consumers by taking user expectations into account.
The COVID-19 pandemic increased people's time at home and caused an 80% increase in noise disputes between floors. The purpose of this study is to propose suitable materials for making indoor shoes (insoles) to minimize noise between floors. Subjects without back pain and leg-related disease (e.g. arthritis, etc.) from three different age groups (childhood, adolescence, and adulthood) were recruited for the study. Five polymer insole materials were considered: Chloroprene Rubber (CR foam), Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM foam), Natural Latex foam, Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA foam), and Polyurethane (PU foam). From these materials, 20 combinations were prepared and randomly tested for noise and vibration. The results revealed a significant difference in noise and vibration levels based on the type of material used and the age of the subject. Nevertheless, all materials under consideration successfully reduced noise and vibration; in particular, type A-C greatly decreased. The CR foam material was especially effective at noise and vibration reduction (p<.01). This study suggests that adding insoles into socks that children wear at home could reduce noise vibration and disputes between floors.
Key Words
Noise between floors, Noise, Vibration, Materials of insole, 층간소음, 소음, 진동, 인솔 재질
Tightness Evaluation of Smart Sportswear Using 3D Virtual Clothing 3D 가상착의를 이용한 스마트 스포츠웨어의 밀착성 평가
To develop smart sportswear capable of measuring biometric data, we created a close-fitting pattern using two- and three-dimensional (2D and 3D, respectively) methods. After 3D virtual fitting, the tightness of each pattern was evaluated using image processing of contact points, mesh deviation, and cross-sectional shapes. In contact-point analysis, the 3D pattern showed high rates of contact with the body (84.6% and 93.1% for shirts and pants, respectively). Compared with the 2D pattern, the 3D pattern demonstrated closer contact at the lower chest, upper arm, and thigh regions, where electrocardiography and electromyography were primarily carried out. The overall average gap was also lower in the 3D pattern (5.27 and 4.66 mm in shirts and pants, respectively). In the underbust, waist, thigh circumference, and mid-thigh circumference, the cross-section distance between clothing and body was showed a statistically significant difference and evenly distributed in the 3D pattern, exhibiting more closeness. The tightness and fit of the 3D smart sportswear sensor pattern were successfully evaluated. We believe that this study is critical, as it facilitates the comparison of different patterns through visualization and digitization through 3D virtual fitting.
Key Words
Tightness evaluation, Smart sportwear, 3D virtual clothing, Contact point, Cross-sectional shape, 밀착성 평가, 스마트 스포츠웨어, 3차원 가상착의, 접촉점, 단면형상
Verification of the Accuracy of Photogrammetry in 3D Full-Body Scanning -A Case Study for Apparel Applications-
Stationary 3D whole-body scanners generally require 5 to 20 seconds of scanning time and cannot effectively detect armpit and crotch areas. Therefore, this study aimed to analyze the accuracy of a photogrammetric technique using a multi-camera system. First, dimensional accuracy was analyzed using a mannequin scan, comparing the differences between the scan-derived measurements and the direct measurements, with an allowable tolerance of ISO 20685-1:2018. Only 2 of 59 measurement items (ankle height and upper arm circumference, specifically) exceeded the ISO 20685-1:2018 criteria. When compared with the results of the eight stationary whole-body scanners assessed by the literature, the photogrammetric technique was found to have the advantage of scanning the top of the head, armpit, and crotch areas clearly. Second, this study found the photogrammetric technique is suitable for obtaining the body scans because it can minimize the perform scanning, resulting in a reduction of measurement errors due to breathing and uncontrolled movements. The error rate of the photogrammetry method was much lower than that of stationary 3D whole-body scanners.
Key Words
Photogrammetry, 3D body scan, Anthropometry, Accuracy, Body shape
Fashion Films from the Modern Ugliness Perspective -Case of SHOWstudio's Works- 현대적 추의 관점에서 살펴본 패션 필름 -SHOWstudio의 작품을 중심으로-
홍준영 Junyoung Hong , 이지선 Jisun Lee , 전재훈 Jaehoon Chun
Although ugliness had long been considered a negative form of beauty, it has become an independent aesthetic category. However, most previous art studies have focused on Rosenkranz's theory, making its application to contemporary fashion analysis challenging. Therefore, it is necessary to redefine ugliness. This study highlighted four modern ugliness categories from a modern perspective following the examination of the historical considerations of the ugliness concept, namely ugliness as a violation of taboo, ugliness as an unpleasant emotion, ugliness as a vulgar taste, and ugliness as an ethical flaw. From this perspective, SHOWstudios for fashion films were analyzed in the present study. The results of our analysis showed that ugliness in the film was related to socially sensitive subjects and stimulating images. Whereas costumes in the film were used as a tool to convey the subject and to enhance the visual effect of the image. In addition, clothing was identified as a core subject element of the video, particularly when considering ugliness as an ethical defect. This study provides further insights into contemporary fashion analysis, expanding the ugliness perspective, which had been limited to the specific perspectives of scholars.
